Cutting the Espresso Blazer
Eleven toiles, one shoulder line and the button we moved four centimetres.
Tomas Brož
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5 min
Starting from the shoulder
A blazer lives or dies at the shoulder. We wanted it wide but soft, so it reads as relaxed rather than borrowed. That took eleven toiles in calico before we touched the wool.
The final pattern drops the seam two centimetres past the natural shoulder and removes the padding almost entirely. What is left is a half-canvas chest that keeps the front from collapsing.
The button
For most of the fittings the single button sat at the waist. On the last toile we moved it four centimetres up, and the whole jacket suddenly looked taller. That is the version you can buy.
Each blazer is chalked, cut and sewn in our Prague workroom. It takes one tailor a little over two days.
